. Don't be an idiot. The neck and body weren't bad but they did some incredibly stupid things to it when building it and used some ultra cheap parts. Plus he has changed the pickups and stripped a screw and now he wants to replace the bridge - do you think they would honor a warranty? The cutaways are big. Loosen the strings, remove the 4 screws for the neck, take a thin piece of cardboard (Match book cover is traditional Fender tech from the 50's), fold it in half, put it at the very heel of the neck pock to about where the screws go, reassemble. I took apart a 56 strat to properly date it, and there was a match book cover as the shim. [img2=JSON]{"alt":"Image result for wraparound bridge","data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"315","width":"315","src":"https:\/\/c.shld.net\/rpx\/i\/s\/pi\/mp\/31094\/prod_6772197715?src=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.bidlessnow.com%2Ffull%2FMOJ%2FMOJ-2113573.jpg&d=e73455ed0472a66ab0717777545ab801cf7cbf20&?hei=64&wid=64&qlt=50"}[/img2]. I can replace a screw if it is stripped, if the bridge is stripped I can drill and tap it for the next oversize metric or SAE screw. . If the manufacturer specifics action values I will discuss them with you - frequently mine will be tighter. Yes! (That's why they are there.) String spread is the distance between the centers of the outer strings on a bridge or tailpiece. - I will attempt to use your bridge if possible. It's tilted because it's so far back the posts can't hold it level. . This bridge works great and was a breeze to install - no drilling. It is a tad tall.be sure to check string height..I put this on a Gibson firebird zero and the fit is perfect although I have the bridge adjusted all the way flat on the body to get the strings low enough.. If you want electronics work I can invoice for parts and labor. There are good tutorials on the web about how to pack it - fitted hardshell case in a fitted box. I used the original posts and this bridge fit perfectly. Thanks Stewmac.Doug Glazier, put it on an cheap blue epiphone with single coils changed to grover tuners also. I really appreciate the offer, Freeman, but this guitar is purely just a fun guitar to add to my collection. I'm not the one being an idiot (your word, BTW, so don't get offended). . Powered by Invision Community. This is a nice upgrade to replace your non-adjustable wraparound bridge. Who would've thought? That's definitely really kind of you to offer. Look familiar? It is slightly used but in excellent condition. I use one on my Ibanez JS700, and it's worth the 30 bucks or so I paid for it on feebay. . Move the bridge. I have a high standard for parts - if I wouldn't put it on my guitar I won't put it on yours. - if SGF is good and/or once I fix them, I will set the action and intonation on your guitar to your specifications at no cost. I'm still willing to work with you over the forum but as I said before, I need some very accurate measurements, which I can walk you thru. The neck tongue is more than half the body thickenss so the remaining body thickness is too thin. I will pass along all parts to you at MSRP or published list price plus S&H - in other words I will charge you the same thing you would pay if you were buy from that source. Measurements from the furthest saddle (6th string): [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/37F0FCEF-42F7-4357-9CB8-B20FCC207B49_zpsueje2tfe.jpg"}[/img2]. As a result of that advice, I achieved good action and intonation with a 1-2 mm clearance before this bridge bottoms out against the guitar body. Action could be adjusted 2 ways: 1) Using a small file, file down the slots on the saddles. I still couldn't intonate the low E because the basic geometry was off, and I got rid of the guitar rather than spend any more effort or money. The bridge can be moved back to a normal position and the tendency for it to tilt will be reduced. ^^^ Actually the neck was likely OK until that bridge was installed.